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Ecuadorian Prosthetic Climbing Warrior—Santiago Quintero
【Climb an 8,000-Foot Peak, Conquer the Everest of Life】
I’ve lived in the mountains for over 30 years, climbed more than 80,000 peaks of varying sizes, and summited nine 8,000-foot peaks. If I can turn adversity into opportunity, then you too can make your dreams come true.
【Climb an 8,000-Foot Peak, Conquer the Everest of Life】
I’ve lived in the mountains for over 30 years, climbed more than 80,000 peaks of varying sizes, and summited nine 8,000-foot peaks. If I can turn adversity into opportunity, then you too can make your dreams come true.
Santiago Quintero
Santiago Quintero, born on November 20, 1974, in Ecuador, first summited Rumiñahui (4,712 meters) at age 15. He is a member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) and the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association (ASEGUIM). With over a decade as a guide, he has led thousands of climbers to South America’s most beautiful peaks.
From 1999 to 2001, Quintero reached the pinnacle of his career, solo climbing the south face of Aconcagua (6,962 meters) in just 30 hours, becoming the fifth person worldwide to achieve this record. He was the first Ecuadorian to solo nine new routes and 14 extreme routes in the Andes, and he soloed over 30 peaks globally, including nine above 6,000 meters.
Recognized as Ecuador’s most outstanding solo climber, Quintero has received the highest honors from the Ecuadorian National Climbing Committee (COE), National Congress of Ecuador, Ecuadorian Mountaineering Federation (FEDAM), and Ecuadorian Climbers Association (AEAP).
Tragically, in 2002, while climbing Aconcagua, his support team abandoned him at nearly 7,000 meters in -37°C conditions without a tent or sleeping bag. After surviving a night, he suffered severe frostbite, leading to three foot amputations in a Spanish hospital 22 days later. Doctors declared he would never engage in sports again and would spend his life in a wheelchair.
Quintero spent five years attempting to return to mountaineering, exploring medical solutions, and enduring grueling rehabilitation. Despite pain, setbacks, and failures, with encouragement from his wife, Claudia Echeverri, and loved ones, he relearned to walk, adapted to life, and redefined himself. He wrote his first autobiography, Mascaras Solitarias(Lonely Masks), detailing his journey of understanding, loving, respecting, revering, and being grateful for the mountains.
His transformation began from a hospital bed, progressing to a wheelchair, crutches, and prosthetics. Since 2006, he has pursued the “14×8000 ECUADOR EN TODO LO ALTO” project, gaining sponsor recognition and media support. As the first person to summit without oxygen equipment, with partial foot amputations and prosthetics, he conquered Broad Peak (2007, 8,051 meters), Makalu (2008, 8,468 meters), Cho Oyu (2011, 8,201 meters), Gasherbrum II (2011, 8,035 meters), Shishapangma (2013, 8,027 meters), Everest (2013, 8,848 meters), Manaslu (2015, 8,163 meters), Dhaulagiri (2017, 8,167 meters), and Nanga Parbat (2024, 8,126 meters).
Having lived in the mountains for over 30 years, climbed over 80,000 peaks, braved blizzards, and tackled extreme challenges, Quintero overcame a life-altering accident that cost him parts of both feet. Defying doctors’ predictions, he proved life’s limitless possibilities with his footsteps, sharing his love-for-life journey on his website. Aiming to conquer all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, he inspires dialogue on global challenges, encouraging Ecuadorians and people with disabilities worldwide to live with courage, gratitude, humility, and victory. Truly the “Ecuadorian Prosthetic Climbing Warrior,” he stood out among 3,683 candidates to win the Chou Ta-Kuan Cultural and Educational Foundation’s “28th Global Love of Life Award in 2025.”
Search for Life Fighters from 233 Countries Worldwide
Everyone can break the shackles of life; everyone’s life holds boundless possibilities.
For 28 years, the Chou Ta-Kuan Cultural and Educational Foundation, with the support and encouragement of communities worldwide, has tirelessly promoted the “Global Love of Life Movement,” advocating: Be good to yourself—cherish your own life; be good to others—respect others’ lives; be good to the Earth—protect the Earth’s life.
To date, we have honored 481 Global Love of Life Award recipients from 81 countries across seven continents, along with 16 Global Love of Life Literature Award winners, including the chivalrous poet Cheng Chou-yu and Chinese chef-poet Song Chengbao, and 41 Hope Award recipients, such as anti-drug hero Kao Chao-liang and reformed figure Wu Shih-hsuan. We have also cared for and supported over 350,000 of the world’s most vulnerable children with cancer, including Mary Donita Uy, a bone cancer angel from a Philippine slum, helping them fight cancer with love and live with hope.
We are deeply grateful for the recognition and resonance from global media outlets such as CNN, BBC, NHK, Yahoo, YouTube, Facebook, and Baidu, which have widely reported our efforts as the “Nobel Prize of Life.”
We are profoundly thankful for accolades including the 3rd National Public Welfare Award in 2001, the Hong Kong Loving Heart Award in 2010, the Ministry of Education Social Education Contribution Award in 2018, Colombia’s Congress Resolution No. 61 in 2019 granting its highest congressional honor, the United Nations NGO World Harmony Outstanding Contribution Award in 2021, and the China Charity and Filial Piety Culture Award in 2022. These recognitions inspire us to continue sharing, encouraging, and striving alongside global communities.
The foundation warmly welcomes nominations of life warriors who demonstrate effort, compassion, courage, and achievement from people worldwide. (Chou Ta-Kuan Cultural and Educational Foundation Global Love of Life Award Nomination Hotline: +886-2-29178770, Fax: +886-2-29178768, Address: 3F, No. 52, Mingde Road, Xindian District, New Taipei City 231, Taiwan, Website: http://www.ta.org.tw, Email: ta88ms17@gmail.com).
Summited a 4,712-Meter Peak at Age 15
Santiago Quintero was born on November 20, 1974, in Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
From a young age, Quintero was passionate about sports, starting track and field at 12 and joining his school’s soccer team at 14. Driven by curiosity, he wondered what the view would be like from the peaks of Ecuador, a country located at the center of the world with diverse regions, climates, landscapes, and cultures.
One day, in his grandmother’s house, he found a magazine called Life featuring a photo of a person standing on the world’s highest mountain. Whenever Quintero looked at that photo, he felt a calling to stand atop the world’s highest peak, aspiring to achieve a mountaineering feat.
However, it wasn’t just that mountain that captivated him. The same magazine mentioned another peak—K2, the second-highest mountain on Earth. Its pyramid shape enthralled him, making it a dream destination for mountaineers, photographers, and artists.
During a holiday, Quintero attended a summer camp where he felt the mountains calling him. With his family’s support and encouragement, he began conversing with the mountains daily, treating them as confidants and approaching them with humility to understand and connect with them.
Under the guidance of his coach, Jack Bermeo, Quintero took each step as an adventure. At 15, he summited Rumiñahui (4,712 meters) for the first time.
Quintero said, “From that day on, my life’s journey was shaped by the wisdom of mountaineering—experiencing exhaustion, cold, heat, discomfort, fear, frustration, and sadness, but also joy, emotion, passion, delight, companionship, unity, friendship, struggle, and survival. Nothing and no one could diminish my passion for the mountains. My purpose lies in the mountains.”
World’s Fifth Record Holder
From 1999 to 2001, Santiago Quintero experienced the most glorious moments of his mountaineering career. As the first Ecuadorian, he soloed nine new routes and 14 extreme routes in the Andes and conquered over 30 peaks worldwide, including nine above 6,000 meters.
His most remarkable achievement came in 2002 when he soloed the south face of Aconcagua (6,962 meters), summiting in just 30 hours, becoming the fifth person worldwide to hold this record. He was honored with the highest accolades from the Ecuadorian National Climbing Committee (COE), National Congress of Ecuador, Ecuadorian Mountaineering Federation (FEDAM), and Ecuadorian Climbers Association (AEAP).
Quintero believes mountaineering allows the body, mind, and soul to relax, akin to meditation or reading. A simple life without internet, television, radio, malls, restaurants, or noise—only accompanied by wind, rain, and snow—offers opportunities for inner growth. On his journey of self-discovery and transformation, the mountains have been his teachers and his sacred space for reflection.
Both Feet Partially Amputated, Fitted with Prosthetic Aids
Aconcagua, the second-highest of the Seven Summits after Everest, lies on the border between Argentina and Chile in the southern Andes, the world’s longest mountain range. It is the highest volcano globally and the highest peak in the Americas.
Aconcagua is relatively accessible despite its high altitude, allowing summits without oxygen tanks. According to Aconcagua Park authorities, around 3,000 people climb it annually, with a 70% success rate.
In 2002, during an Aconcagua climb, Santiago Quintero was abandoned by his support team at nearly 7,000 meters in -37°C conditions without a tent or sleeping bag, surviving a night that caused severe frostbite in both feet.
Twenty-two days later, he was transferred to a hospital in Spain, undergoing three foot amputations. Doctors declared he could never engage in sports again and would spend his life in a wheelchair.
At 26, Quintero faced a life-altering crisis. Losing half of both feet caused unbearable pain, yet he sought ways to keep his spirit intact, as his strength came from mountaineering.
No one, including doctors, believed Quintero could walk normally again, let alone return to climbing.
Over five years, he worked to re-enter mountaineering, exploring medical solutions, undergoing relentless rehabilitation, and finding prosthetic aids for his partial feet. Despite pain, setbacks, and failures, these years gradually strengthened his body, mind, and spirit.
Supported by his wife, Claudia Echeverri, and loved ones, Quintero relearned to walk, adapted to life, and redefined himself. Pursuing his dreams, he launched the ambitious “K2 sin D2” project, summiting two 8,000-meter peaks—Broad Peak and Makalu—in three years.
He wrote his first autobiography, Mascaras Solitarias (Lonely Masks), recounting how he came to know, love, respect, revere, and be grateful for the mountains.
For Quintero, the most important achievement was returning to his beloved mountains in his own way, climbing with a new identity, and proving to all that one can overcome obstacles to realize life’s aspirations. As he said, “A person is not made of one dream but of many dreams.”
Climb the Dream of K2
Qogir Peak stands at an elevation of 8,611 meters above sea level, located on the border between China and Pakistan. It is the world's second-highest peak and the highest peak in Pakistan.
Gintaro had always dreamed of standing on the final slope and summit of Mount Qogir, climbing the last few meters with his friends, and finally realizing his lifelong dream.
On the morning of August 7, 2009, at 9 a.m., Gintaro departed from Camp 3 and headed toward Camp 4 at an altitude of 7,900 meters, with a total of 15 members in the team.
Amid the clacking of ice axes and the sound of ice picks piercing the snow, Jin Tero advanced meter by meter, letting the high-altitude silence and the view from Camp 4 (known as the “shoulder”) carry away his thoughts. This place was intertwined with many joys and sorrows, and he recalled that his Spanish companions were no longer with him.
When Gintoro reached an altitude of 7,800 meters, it was exactly where he had first attempted to reach on his previous attempt. With boundless joy, he arrived at the famous Jirong Peak Shoulder, the most beautiful, majestic, and massive mountain peak.
Gintero remarked that everything he had read about this mountain in books was now before his eyes. The mountain peak, the endless space, and the famous bottleneck and massive cliffs before him would become an important part of his inner self.
After preparing meticulously, Gintoro slowly climbed up the shoulder of Mount Qogir until he reached the famous bottleneck. This was a vertical climb of rock and ice, with a massive hanging serpentine rock at the end. Just looking at the serpentine rock was enough to make one fear that a piece of rock might break off, as some climbers had perished there in 2008.
When Gintero finally reached the end of the Bottleneck, a large chunk of ice broke off the glacier. Fortunately, no one was hit by the falling ice.
Due to the heavy snowfall this year, snow had accumulated on the mountain, reaching waist-high levels. Within an hour, Gintero had only advanced 20 meters. At that moment, everyone realized that reaching the summit was no longer possible. Even the Austrian mountaineering expert Gerlinde, who had led the climb, was struggling with snow up to her chest.
By 3 PM, Gintero realized they were making their final push. At that moment, Gerlinde, armed with two ice axes and a determination he had never seen before, resolved to push forward through the unstable snowfield at all costs. Five meters later, a Russian climber said, “We've reached our limit, and there's a risk of an avalanche.”
At an altitude of 8,400 meters, the team members looked at each other, said nothing, and began their descent, thinking to themselves, “There's no chance of reaching the summit this year.”
Gintoro thanked the beautiful mountain for the wonderful moments it had given him, turned humbly, and accepted the fact that he couldn't reach the summit. He knew his physical limits—he couldn't climb higher in winter—and the mountain had told him this was the path he was meant to take. For him, it held profound meaning, as this dream had become even more special.
Now, Mount Qogori holds even greater significance for Jin Tero. His new goal is to reach the summit at an altitude of 8,611 meters.
Challenge 14 eight-thousander peaks
An “eight-thousander” refers to a mountain peak with an elevation of 8,000 meters or higher. In mountaineering terminology, the term “eight-thousander” has become widely recognized and established, referring to the 14 independent mountain peaks on Earth with elevations exceeding 8,000 meters, all of which are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges of Asia.
On October 16, 1986, Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944) became the first person to complete the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders.
One year later, in 1987, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka (March 24, 1948–October 24, 1989) became the second person to achieve this feat and remains the fastest to do so to date: the time between his first and last summit was just 7 years, 11 months, and 14 days.
Although Kukuczka used supplemental oxygen during one of his summit ascents of Mount Everest, he completed four of his summits during the winter season.
Additionally, Kukuczka pioneered nine new routes on the major eight-thousanders, benefiting countless climbers. Currently, fewer than 50 people worldwide have completed the feat of climbing all 14 of the world's highest peaks.
Gintero stated, “If he could reach the summit with one foot, then everyone can achieve what they desire; with determination, one can become a good father, son, student, citizen, employee, athlete, and a good person.”
Below is Ginterro's journey to completing nine 8,000-meter peaks. To date, he has set his sights on climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, launching a global challenge to inspire people with disabilities in Ecuador and around the world to live bravely, gratefully, humbly, and victoriously.
Kim Tro repeatedly humbly states, “Mountains, especially the world's highest peaks, teach us—it is never about ‘conquering,’ but about the courage that surpasses the mountains, breaking through one's own limits, and overcoming every challenging peak in life!”
● Climbed Mount Bloat in 2007
The height of Broat Peak is 8,012 meters above sea level, with a ridge stretching 1.5 kilometers long. Located in the Karakoram Range along the border between China and Pakistan, it has sparked great interest among mountaineers. To reach the summit at 8,051 meters above sea level, climbers must traverse this lengthy ridge at such high altitudes.
In June 2007, an international mountaineering expedition will take place to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the 8,001st summit of the Himalayas.
The expedition will be led by Carlos Pauner, a renowned and experienced Spanish mountaineer.
After learning about Gintoro's story and recovery process, Pauner invited him to join the team and climb the summit of the world's twelfth-highest peak.
Gintoro accepted Pauner's invitation because the climbing route of Broart Peak is not technically demanding but features ice mountains and rocky cliffs, requiring the use of fixed ropes for ascent.
Although Broad Peak is not an easy climb, it is relatively safe, making it an ideal choice for Gintoro, who seeks to tackle his first eight-thousander under challenging yet manageable conditions.
Gintoro stated, “This peak represents the eight-thousanders of the Himalayas. Climbing it will serve as excellent preparation for my plan to summit Mount K2.”
●Summit of Makalu in 2008
Mount Makalu stands at an elevation of 8,468 meters above sea level, located on the border between China and Nepal. It is the neighboring peak of Mount Everest and the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Among the 14 peaks exceeding 8,000 meters, it is considered the most challenging to climb, surpassed only by Annapurna and K2. It is often referred to as one of the greatest challenges in the international mountaineering community.
To summit Mount Makalu, climbers must overcome extreme high altitudes and navigate extremely complex rock and ice terrain starting at 8,000 meters. Additionally, the final 400 meters—the Black West Face direct route—must be climbed without fixed descent ropes, making it technically extremely challenging.
Since Kintaro climbed these massive peaks without fingers, his training regimen was far more rigorous than usual, as he required exceptional physical strength and adaptability to achieve his goal.
K2 is the most challenging and desolate fingerless mountain in the world, and it was Gintero's greatest dream in 2009. To achieve this challenge, he first had to reach the summit above 8,400 meters while promoting ecological and mountaineering values, aiming to bring high-altitude culture into urban environments and convey the message of “let's all protect the Earth together.”
● Summit of Cho Oyu in 2011
Mount Cho Oyu stands at an elevation of 8,201 meters above sea level, located on the border between China and Nepal, and is the sixth-highest peak in the world.
Gintaro never mentioned how he endured the pain of his injured feet, the discomfort of wearing prosthetic limbs, and the permanent sensitivity of his feet. To eat breakfast, he had to put on completely frozen prosthetic limbs, and the pain was excruciating when he placed his feet inside them.
At that moment, Gintaro felt a sense of despair, but as he recalled his experiences and achievements on the mountain, the despair gradually faded and transformed into energy.
May 5, 2011, was an extremely exhausting day because there were only two and a half days of suitable weather for climbing. Gintero began his ascent on May 3, reaching Camp 1 at an altitude of 6,750 meters, then climbed to Camp 3 at 7,450 meters the next day. He started his ascent again at 4 a.m. the following day and successfully reached the summit of the third eight-thousander by 1 p.m.
Gintero was extremely excited and thrilled. Although this was his second visit to Cho Oyu, he expressed gratitude to the mountain for allowing him to return, describing it as a new adventure. For him, it was a new peak, and everything he experienced was a new experience.
● Summit of Gasherbrum II in 2011
Gasherbrum II stands at an elevation of 8,035 meters above sea level, located in the Karakoram Range along the border between China and Pakistan. It is the world's 13th highest peak and the fourth highest peak in the Karakoram Range.
On July 17, 2011, Gintero reached Camp 2 at an altitude of 6,400 meters and planned to proceed to Camp 3 at 7,000 meters. However, upon arriving at Camp 2, he found it completely buried under a layer of snow 1 centimeter thick, making it impossible to reach Camp 3.
Gintoro attempted to clear a path through the snow, breaking through 10 centimeters of snow, and climbed along the slope toward the second high ground. After 40 minutes of effort, he reached the base of the high-altitude camp. The two Swiss climbers and the Sherpa were deeply grateful for his work, as this was not the first time Gintoro had cleared a path through the snow.
Later, more Canadians joined in to help clear the path. Regardless of nationality, everyone worked together to set up ropes at a height of 150 centimeters, gradually extending the path until it reached 300 meters. Everyone arrived safely at Camp 3.
The next day, Gintero set off for Camp 4 at noon. When he reached the mountain pass, the wind was extremely strong. Out of the 25-member team, 13 turned back, while the remaining 12 ventured forward toward the summit. In thick fog and extremely low visibility, they battled the fierce winds and cleared a path, a highly dangerous endeavor as the trail could be erased, making the descent more complicated and increasing the risk of tragedy. They hurried back down to Camp 1.
On July 22, 2011, the weather forecast indicated it would be a good day, but at Camp 3 at an altitude of 7,000 meters, the actual conditions were far from ideal. The wind was strong, snow was falling continuously, and visibility was only 30%. After seven hours of relentless effort, Kintaro finally reached the final ridge of Gasherbrum II Peak at an altitude of 8,035 meters, successfully summiting the mountain.
The day after reaching the summit, the weather forecast indicated that July 22 was unsuitable for summiting, with July 25 being the optimal date. Fortunately, Jin Tero safely descended from the summit, successfully summiting despite the adverse weather conditions.
Gintoro stated that during difficult times, there is always a ray of light illuminating his heart, driving him toward the summit. He firmly believes that what lies within every person's heart is the same as what they see in the world—this is humanity's greatest treasure.
● Summiting Shishapangma in 2013
Shishapangma stands at an elevation of 8,027 meters above sea level, located within the Nielamu County of Shigatse City, Tibet Autonomous Region. It is the lowest of the 14 eight-thousander peaks and is known in Tibetan as “the crown of the grasslands.”
In 2012, Jin Tero went to Mount Manaslu. After nine days of climbing, he reached an altitude of 7,000 meters, completing the acclimatization process. However, due to weather conditions, he was unable to reach the summit. He also witnessed 17 climbers go missing on the mountain due to an avalanche, leaving a deep impression on him.
As a result of this climb, Jin Tero sustained an open wound on his left foot, which required a long time to heal. After observing the wound's gradual improvement, the doctor permitted him to resume training.
In December 2012, Jin Tero began preparing for his dream of climbing Mount Everest by cycling 1,200 kilometers along the coast and highlands of Ecuador.
In January 2013, Jin Tieluo climbed Mount Antisana, Mount Cotopaxi, Mount Chimborazo, Mount Pichincha, and Mount Illiniza, and then went to Mount Aconcagua, reaching the summit from Camp 1 in just six hours. These training efforts were all in preparation for his eventual climbs of Mount Shishapangma and Mount Everest.
On April 7, 2023, Jin Tero departed for Nepal, with plans to reach the final base camp at an altitude of 5,600 meters on the 17th. The journey was marked by heavy snow and wind, taking 8 hours to traverse 30 kilometers through fresh snow, a grueling and exhausting ordeal.
On April 26, 2013, Jin Tero planned to attempt the summit in three days. The team worked together to clear the route and finally reached the final ridge, where they could see the center of Shishapangma. The weather was excellent during the three days, with almost no wind.
On April 29, 2013, Jin Tero departed at 1 a.m. from Camp 3 at 7,100 meters above sea level. The first section was a blue ice canyon with a vertical drop of 300 meters, which he navigated without a safety rope, reaching 7,400 meters above sea level.
Gintoro described the final few meters on the steep ridge as feeling like riding a horse, searching for the summit's glory. The sensation was incredible! The breathtaking beauty of the moment brought tears to his eyes.
● Summiting Mount Everest in 2013
Mount Everest stands at an elevation of 8,848 meters above sea level, located at the border between China and Nepal. It is the main peak of the Himalayas, the highest mountain in the world, and is known as the “Roof of the World,” earning it the title of “Holy Mountain.”
On May 9, 2013, after successfully summiting Shishapangma, Guntero and his team immediately boarded a helicopter and arrived at the Everest Base Camp. There, they were joined by numerous Sherpas, climbers, and aspiring summiteers, including an 80-year-old man who successfully reached the summit using oxygen. Among all these people, only the four of them refused to use oxygen tanks during the climb.
Gintoro emphasized that his climbing plan was well-prepared: he would be accompanied by two Sherpas, who would transport all necessary supplies from base camp, including food, sleeping bags, tents, cooking utensils, and medications. As an emergency precaution, they would carry one oxygen cylinder.
On May 17, 2013, Kimtoro set off for Camp 2 at an altitude of 6,400 meters, which required crossing the Khumbu Glacier, a glacier composed of ice tongues and one of the most dangerous places on Mount Everest. Although the ice tongues may move slowly, there is a high probability of collapse, causing an ice avalanche.
On May 19, 2013, Jin Tero set off for Camp 3 at an altitude of 7,100 meters. Thanks to good weather, they reached their destination in just four hours.
On May 20, 2013, Gintero spent seven hours climbing to the South Col of Mount Everest at an altitude of 8,000 meters in an extremely challenging high-altitude region. He was just 900 meters away from the summit of Mount Everest, which made him doubt whether he could endure the physical strain.
During the climb, Gintaro developed two small wounds on his right foot due to excessive friction and swelling. The wounds became inflamed from exhaustion, leaving him in disbelief at what was happening to his body. He felt utterly defeated, constantly touching his feet and repeating to himself, “Why give up?” Why not try?”
So Gintoro made a brave decision: he took two highly potent anti-inflammatory pills and two aspirin tablets to improve blood circulation. The pain subsided, and he miraculously set off toward the summit of Mount Everest.
As he climbed the nearly vertical rock face, with an ice wall on one side and a bottomless cliff on the other, the Sherpa guide excitedly told him they were at the South Peak at 8,700 meters above sea level, just 150 meters from the summit of Mount Everest. Everyone blessed him, as he was the only person to reach the summit without oxygen.
The final 150 meters of Mount Everest were extremely challenging, as at the very end of the summit, an optical illusion makes one believe they are just a stone's throw away, but in reality, there is still a long way to go. Jintuo continued forward and saw the famous Hillary Step, the final obstacle before reaching the summit of Mount Everest.
On May 27, 2013, the weather began to change. Without supplemental oxygen or the use of his lower limbs, Gintoro reached the summit of his fifth eight-thousander.
Gintoro stated that while this account may sound easy, the physical condition at the time was challenging, and being at an altitude of 8,000 meters on Mount Everest made the decision far from straightforward. He used his legs as an example, explaining that doctors had told him he couldn’t engage in any physical activity, but he saw himself as a climber. Mentally, he didn’t view it as impossible; instead, he decided to follow his heart’s desire.
● Summiting Mount Manaslu in 2015
Mount Manaslu stands at an elevation of 8,163 meters above sea level in the central Himalayas within Nepal, making it the world's eighth-highest peak. In Sanskrit, it is known as the “Mountain of the Spirits.”
During his acclimatization process, Kintaro expressed deep gratitude to the Sherpas, who secured the climbing route with ropes and repaired damaged paths. Without their efforts, it would have been impossible to reach Camp 1 at 5,800 meters in just seven days, let alone reach the storm-ridden region at 6,800 meters a few days later.
Gintoro recalled his last climb of an eight-thousander two years prior, deeply missing these peaks. Most climbers were waiting for favorable weather, receiving a variety of weather forecasts from around the world, leaving them unsure of what to do.
Another climbing team from a different organization, having spent millions of dollars and brought along many Sherpas, aimed to reach the summit by September 26. However, they failed to reach Camp 4 at an altitude of 7,450 meters. A team member descending the mountain informed Gintoro that they were dismantling all their equipment and leaving in a hurry.
Gintoro's expression of anger and helplessness was evident, and the entire team was deeply discouraged. The Sherpa leader informed them that the weather conditions over the next few days would not be favorable, and they must strive to reach Camp 4.
On September 30, 2015, without supplemental oxygen, Gintoro reached the summit of his seventh eight-thousander. The weather was extremely cold, and there was a moment when he considered giving up, but he overcame the challenge.
During this expedition, Jin Tero experienced many challenges, and the “lessons learned” were a gift—opportunities for continuous improvement and personal growth in everyone's lives, enriching their journeys and making their lives more vibrant and fulfilling.
● Summiting Dhaulagiri in 2017
Dhaulagiri stands at 8,167 meters above sea level in the central Himalayas within Nepal, making it the world's seventh-highest peak. Its treacherous terrain has earned it the nickname “Devil's Peak.”
Gintaro waited two or three days at base camp for favorable weather before attempting the summit and descending safely. The route took him from base camp to Camp 2, then to the unknown terrain of Camp 3 (7,500 meters above sea level), where he attempted the summit. After a seven-hour climb, they set up tents nearby and waited for dawn.
Gintoro shared the conditions during the climb. At around 2 or 3 a.m., the relentless wind finally stopped. The first section of the climb was extremely steep, followed by a series of lateral traverses across rocky terrain. The terrain was fragmented and unstable, and the exposed nature of the area, combined with the growing number of climbers, created a highly tense atmosphere.
Gintoro managed to get through the first section, followed by the second vertical ascent, which led to the ridge toward the summit. By then, he was completely exhausted and relied solely on sheer willpower to reach the final 100 meters to the ridge.
Three Sherpas and an Italian climber had already reached the ridge ahead of him. When it was his turn to arrive, he felt no emotion, only fear and tension. At that moment, a thunderstorm was raging, with lightning striking violently, and the air was charged with static electricity, making it seem as though lightning could strike at any moment.
Gintoro and the other climbers dared not move, hurriedly taking photos before rushing back to Camp 3 in the chaos. The summit was still far away, requiring them to cross a flat area and reach a rock with a distinctive shape, which marked the highest point.
The next morning, Jin Tero discovered he had cerebral edema. He stayed at Camp 3 all day. Sherpa Mingma noticed no improvement and had him administer oxygen. He also requested a helicopter rescue for his wife.
The Sherpa Mingma assisted Gintoro in moving from Camp 3 to Camp 2 to await the helicopter's arrival. That day, he and his wife flew back to Kathmandu by helicopter for a medical examination.
Gintoro stated, “Among these nine 8,000-meter peaks, this mountain has the worst and most terrifying weather. From Camp 2, it's one world, and from Camp 2 to the summit, it's another world. The weather didn't give them any chance to catch their breath. He was very lucky to make it down and return to base camp.”
● Summiting Nanga Parbat in 2024
Nanga Parbat stands at 8,126 meters above sea level in the western Himalayas of Pakistan. It is the ninth-highest peak in the world and means “Naked Mountain” in Urdu, as there are no nearby high mountains.
It took Kintaro seven years to achieve his goal of summiting Nanga Parbat. In 2017, after summiting Dhaulagiri, he returned to Ecuador for a medical check-up, where doctors discovered he had a patent foramen ovale—a small hole in the heart present since birth. Despite this condition, which had begun to affect his health, doctors could not explain how he had managed to climb at such high altitudes without supplemental oxygen. reach such high altitudes without oxygen and advised him to undergo surgery.
In 2019, since Jin Tero had no sponsors, he decided to undergo surgery that year. The surgery did not go smoothly, and he spent several months in the hospital. It was only after he found the best doctor in Colombia and received assistance from Saludsa (an Ecuadorian health insurance company) that he was able to be discharged.
In 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic hit, and everyone was confined to their homes. Jin Tero dreamed day and night of when he could finally set foot on the sacred mountain.
In 2021, Jin Tero returned to his expedition—climbing Lenin Peak (7,134 meters above sea level), located on the border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, a place he had never been to before.
In 2022, Jin Tero was very excited to travel to Pakistan to climb K2, but due to the extremely complex nature of the expedition, he was unable to reach the summit.
In 2023, Jin Tero returned to Pakistan to climb Nanga Parbat. He had previously been unaware that the mountain stood at 8,126 meters in height. He turned back 100 meters from the summit due to poor physical condition and foot issues.
On July 18, 2024, Jin Tero climbed his ninth eight-thousander, symbolizing his efforts to overcome the most important peaks in his life—the peaks within his heart. Even his heart told him to do it, which is why he was able to keep going.
During this expedition, Jin Tero carried a backpack weighing over 20 kilograms while climbing, starting from base camp to the second camp to begin acclimatization training.
Jin Tieluo mentioned that time passed slowly at base camp, with his memories and thoughts being activated. He applied what he had learned to his inner world—meditation, prayer, and relaxation—to avoid worrying about the weather, as ultimately, everything was beyond his control.
July is the rainy season in the Himalayas, leaving Jin Tero little time to rest. During the days leading up to the summit, the winds were extremely strong. He prayed daily for the wind to die down. Upon reaching Camp 3, he received word from a meteorologist that the wind speed had dropped to 30–35 kilometers per hour. He took a gamble and rushed toward the summit, only to find it resembling a hurricane. so strong that he could only quickly take a photo and descend. He didn’t even have time to share his joy with his wife.
This summit climb represents seven years of relentless effort and learning for Jin Tero. He is especially grateful to his wife, who has been his greatest support and pillar. Most importantly, they must support, understand, and endure each other, especially since climbing such a dangerous peak must have been extremely challenging.
Additionally, during this expedition, Jin Tero felt God’s guidance and care, as if God were speaking to him with a heart full of love. He is deeply grateful for all the gifts and blessings God has bestowed upon him.
The Most Dangerous Job in the World
For every person who successfully reaches the summit of an 8,000-meter peak, the assistance of a Sherpa is indispensable.
For those who love mountaineering, Mount Everest in the Himalayas has always been the most sacred, revered, and ideal destination, inspiring a desire to experience its majesty firsthand. Its towering peaks, pristine white slopes, and breathtaking vistas all serve as a reminder of humanity's insignificance and the overwhelming power of nature.
However, climbing Mount Everest is no easy feat. Besides its extreme altitude of 8,848 meters, climbers must endure average temperatures of around -30°C year-round, navigate glacial terrain, deal with snow accumulation and avalanche risks, and face potential dangers such as oxygen deprivation, hypothermia, altitude sickness, and falls.
Furthermore, climbers must contend with unpredictable blizzards and weather conditions. Even with thorough preparation and adequate physical training, the level of danger remains extremely high.
The Sherpas reside on the slopes of the Himalayas, a minority ethnic group predominantly of Nepalese origin. Having lived in high-altitude regions for generations, they possess unparalleled knowledge and familiarity with the mountains, making them natural guides. They provide support and logistical services to international climbing teams, which has become one of the primary economic pillars for the Sherpa community.
Most Sherpas work in the mountains, guiding foreigners from around the world to the summit, setting up ropes and ladders along the way, and transporting everything from food, tents, and oxygen tanks to the mountain—these efforts bring money and development to their communities, but for the Sherpas themselves, there is little glory.
Because when wealthy climbing teams climb to the summit with large sums of money, most people are unaware that this is achieved at the risk of the Sherpas' lives. Moreover, outsiders only remember the names of the climbers, not the hardworking Sherpas.
In the history of Mount Everest climbing, Sherpas who accompanied climbers from around the world to the summit did not even receive certificates acknowledging their achievement. Although this issue has only recently begun to be addressed, it highlights the long-standing neglect of the Sherpa community.
From a practical perspective, the influx of climbers brings significant revenue to the Nepalese government—mountaineering permits alone cost up to $11,000. However, only a small portion of this money reaches the Sherpas, who quietly endure one of the most dangerous jobs in the world.
Each year, Sherpa guides in the Himalayas earn approximately $8,000 to $10,000, which is ten times the average income of other Nepalese. This is why, despite the hardships, they are willing to risk their lives to support their families.
Sherpa Lakpa Rita said, “For him, his job is to keep climbing. He spends over eight months a year on the mountains. All Sherpas miss their families and friends, but this is their work, and they must focus on every detail.”
He hopes that in the future, Sherpa work will be given more recognition and attention. If climbers are willing to spend a little more time understanding the dangerous conditions under which Sherpas prepare all the logistics and show mutual respect and tolerance, it could reduce the number of mountain accidents and help climbers achieve their goals.
